Hindush Range

On this trek Darkot to Darkot Pass (4575m), the lateral moraine of the glacier then walks down the middle of the wide flat Darkot Glacier, crossing crevasses and stream for an easy (3-4 hrs) to Chikar Yarkhun Valley.

In all directions are views of Granite Peaks interspersed with glaciers. A glaciated ridge 200m high separates from the Zindikharam Glacier, so you can look then walk to up the Zindikharam to Lalay Rabat, at the top of the Boroghil region. Descent is much steeper on the Darkot side and the glacier is wet and slippery in the morning sun (crampons are recommended for the members). Keep to the right going to the glacier and on the first bowl below the snout, cross to the left bank and join a well-made path the zigzags steeply go up to the bottom of the Yarkhun Valley.

Naltar is a two hours jeep ride from Gilgit (42km) via Nomal. Alternate is to go by public bus to Nomal and then hike for about six hours (not recommended). After this the trekking can start:

Stage1 – Naltar to Naltar Lakes About 12 km (4 hours to walk). Can be done in one hour by jeep. The book recommends walking through the thick pine forest. After nine kilometer and crossing the bridge comes Bangla a summer settlement. After that you pass through more forest and reach the first of the Naltar Lakes. There are a total of four lakes around and Isobel Shaw says that you can do fishing there.

Stage2 – Naltar Lake to Lower Shani Four to five hours. Along the way is a summer gujar settlement Gupa. The advice is to have a shepherd or local show you the way as the path may not be clear at some points. Camp at Lower Shani (which is a summer camp for shepherd). There are 3, 4 peaks of 5800m or so around.

Stage3 – Lower Shani to Naltar base camp Four to five hours. The path goes along the edge of Shani glacier to upper Shani which is a pasture. Then passing through knee deep flowers you reach a Plateau at 4100m where you can camp.

Stage4 – Across Naltar Pass to Kruibokht Six hours. Two hours climb up stones and snow to the flat top of the pass. Views of Shispar peak at a distance. The first hour on the other side of the Naltar pass is across crevassed snow fields. Next is a difficult two hours walk along the crest of the lateral moraine of Pakhora glacier. Camp at the green pasture along the stream.

Stage5 – Kruibokht to Phakora Six hours. The path is above the river first through pastures and then through thick forest. Passing through settlements you finally come to the Utz village. It is a hot three to four hours before you reach Phakora. Pakhora is a small village with some shops. Jeeps leave from here for Gilgit.

Tirich Valley, a long, western branch of the Turikho Valley, leads towards the base of the highest Hindu Kush peaks; Noshaq, Istor-o- Nal and Tirich Mir. The popular trek to Tirich Mir Base Camp traverses the Lower Tirich Glacier, so experience with glacier travel is helpful. The base camp is known locally as Babu Camp, named after Babu Mohammad, a veteran guide who, when not on trek, can be found at Chitral’s Mountain Inn. Reminiscent of the Baltoro Glacier trek, but much shorter and less demanding, this trek delights fans of big mountains and mighty glaciers.